Although Barker's decline resulted in increasing absence from the office, Ellis kept a busy schedule. In 1984 he joined with Levi Strauss to produce a sportswear line called Perry Ellis America and brought back the Portfolio line, this time with men's wear as well as women's, to offer fashionable classic looks at moderate prices. He was also elected president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA).

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Ellis had long wanted a child and conceived one with film producer and screenwriter Barbara Gallagher, who had been a friend for about a decade. Their daughter, Tyler Alexandra Gallagher Ellis, was born in November 1984. Ellis bought an elegant house in Brentwood, California for Gallagher and the baby.

Over the next year Ellis juggled work, his duties as CFDA president, and, most importantly, caring for Barker, who was failing rapidly.

Barker was hospitalized in late 1985, but Ellis brought him home at Christmastime. Barker died on January 2, 1986 at the age of thirty-seven. His death was publicly reported as due to lung cancer.

A few weeks laer, on January 19, Ellis made one of his last public appearances, at the CFDA's annual awards ceremony. He had to be assisted to the podium by his old friend Robert MacDonald.

Although Ellis was desperately ill, he insisted on attending a benefit for the American Foundation for AIDS Research in late April. A longtime friend later speculated that Ellis may have intended this as a tacit acknowledgment that he had AIDS.

Ellis was also determined to appear at the showing of his fall collection on May 8. Far too weak to close the show with his traditional skip down the runway, he could only walk to the top of it with the support of his two design assistants. The audience rose to give him a standing ovation.

Fashion critics praised the collection. Nina Hyde of the Washington Post called it "classic, but special in the hands of this designer." She pointed to characteristic elements--"the familiar cuts" that defined the Ellis silhouette and the typical styles such as wrap coats, this time "brightened . . . with a strong palette of pastels." She highlighted the importance of sweaters and noted that "he introduced the cable-stitched and patterned sweaters that have influenced fashion everywhere."

Before the writers had even written their reviews MacDonald was driving Ellis from the showroom to the hospital. He remained there, eventually lapsing into a coma. Ellis died on May 30, 1986.

His demise was attributed to viral encephalitis, a common immediate cause of death in AIDS patients.

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