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| McQueen, Alexander (b. 1969)
One of McQueen's most controversial shows grew from his art direction of an issue of the alternative fashion magazine Dazed & Confused about models with severe physical disabilities. The subsequent catwalk show inspired by the issue featured model Aimee Mullins, whose legs had been amputated from the knees down, walking down the catwalk on hand carved wooden legs. The show was presented in a spirit of empowerment and inclusivity. At the age of 26 McQueen became the chief designer at the French couture house Givenchy, taking over from fellow Englishman John Galliano. McQueen's appointment caused a stir in Paris (as did the appointment of Galliano at Dior), where the fashion press considered Hubert de Givenchy royalty in French design and McQueen a "commoner." Questions about McQueen's talent and ability were quickly silenced, however, after he dazzled Pairs with his first show, which combined exquisite tailoring skills with a hard-edged street style. McQueen was asked to prepare ten collections a year for Givenchy, while continuing to release his own collections under his own name. Despite McQueen's success at Givenchy, the alliance was never a happy marriage. The young designer's hard-edged chic was at odds with the restrained French elegance of Hubert de Givenchy. To compound the difficulties, McQueen refused to learn French or to immerse himself into French life. By October 2000 rumors began to spread that McQueen was planning to defect from Givenchy and its parent company LVMH (Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton) and that the other major player in the fashion world, Gucci Group (whose creative director Tom Ford had shown much interest in McQueen and his work), was on the verge of offering McQueen a deal. In October 2001 McQueen's relationship with LVMH finally ended. Gucci Group bought a 51 per cent share in McQueen's company for a reputed £54,000,000. The deal also included ten new McQueen stores and the establishment of McQueen's own "house" in Paris in 2002. This move shows great faith both in McQueen's talent as a designer and as a businessman. The McQueen mix of outrageous theater, stunning and provocative design, and precise tailoring promises continued success in the fashion world.
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arts >> Overview: Fashion arts >> Dior, Christian arts >> Ford, Tom arts >> Galliano, John
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| Bibliography | ||
Barber, Lynn. "Emperor of Bare Bottoms." Observer Life (December 15, 1996): 4-7. D'Souza, Christa. "McQueen and Country." The Observer Magazine (March 4, 2001): 10-18. Enninful, Edward. "Great British Fashion." i-D 121 (October 1993): 90-92. Frankel, Susannah. "The Real McQueen." The Independent Fashion Magazine (Autumn-Winter 2000): 6-15. Rpt. Frankel, Susannah. Visionaries. London: V&A Publications, 2001. Marcus, Tony. "I Am the Resurrection." i-D 179 (September 1998): 146-149. Steele, Valerie. "'Style in Revolt': Hussein Chalayan, Alexander McQueen and Vivienne Westwood." Radical Fashion. Claire Wilcox, ed. London: V&A Publications, 2001. 46-53.
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| Citation Information | ||||
| Author: | Cole, Shaun | |||
| Entry Title: | McQueen, Alexander | |||
| General Editor: | Claude J. Summers | |||
| Publication Name: | glbtq: An Encyclopedia of Gay, Lesbian,
Bisexual, Transgender, and Queer Culture |
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| Publication Date: | 2002 | |||
| Date Last Updated | December 8, 2002 | |||
| Web Address | www.glbtq.com/arts/mcqueen_a.html | |||
| Publisher | glbtq, Inc. 1130 West Adams Chicago, IL 60607 |
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| Encyclopedia Copyright: | © 2002-2006, glbtq, Inc. | |||
| Entry Copyright | © 2002, glbtq, Inc. | |||
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